Dark Eyes And Lips

Inspired by Pat McGrath's creation in 2010 for John Galliano, Galliano wanted the faces to look like an old trip to hollywood with dramatic signatures such as curled lashes and pencil thin brows. 

The models were styled with feathers, pearls, laces and colour sprayed flowers. They all represent an older time in glamorous hollywood that we can only see through classic film and photographs and I feel that Galliano and Pat Mcgrath did this era justice.  

Tools/equipment needed:

• Sleek eyeshadow palette
• Maybelline 14hr lipstick
• Eyeshadow brush
• Blending brush
• Lip brush
• Mascara

I was fairly happy with how this look turned out, however I think I should have used slightly more matte eyeshadows so that the whole eye is not so shimmery, and ideally I would've liked to have used fake eyelashes to complement the look.

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles (Inspired by American Horror Story)

Toold s/equipment needed:

• Tail comb
• Paddle brush
• Curling tongs
• Hair grips

1. Put the hair into a side parting using your tail comb, making sure there is some lift at the root

2. Starting at the front, take two one inch sections on the side the parting is on and three one inch sections of the other side, and curl them all away from the parting. Make each section about the width of the curling tong

3. Secure each of these curls with hair grips, as seen below

4. Next, curl the section of hair that is just behind the front curls, about the width of three of the curls in front, i.e about three inches wide. Curl this section horizontally, downwards.

5. Then take a section below that of about t six inches wide, split it into two, and curl both sections

6. Repeat the last step below this section created above

7. Now curl the hair in three inch wide sections the rest of the way down the middle of the head

8. Curl the rest of the hair at the sides in sections, going downwards, and secure them all with hair grips. These curls are curled towards the face

 

 Up-do (Inspired by Moira O'Hara, the maid)
9. When all the hair has been curled and pinned up, let the last curl cool and then remove all the hair grips from the hair, apart from the five curls on the top/front.
10. Use your paddle brush to lightly brush through the curls to make them more managable.
11. Start twisting the hair up upwards, moving from one side to the other in a horizontal line, until you get the look below.
12. Secure the twisted hair with hair grips. Try to make them as hidden as possible.
13. Use your tail comb to lift the hair being pulled back to give it some more body.
14. Take the hair grips out of the curls at the front of the hair and pull the curls out individually to them push them back into the hair to create a wave against the head, and then pin them in place with hair grips.
15. Layer the curls on top of each other to give more body.

 I actually real like this look - I think it looks very sophisticated and quite classic. I think I need to work on neatening up my curls so that if I were to look back on this look, in order to recreate it, I would easily know which way the curls need to be facing. I like how the curls are positioned on the left side because there is a lot of volume and it looks very textured, however, I do think they are as effective on the right side, so I need to ensure that I ensure that both sides have the same pattern/effect. 

Down-do

9. Use a paddle brush to brush out the curls, using a over and under motion to get big, smooth curls to form. 

10. Push the front sections, on both sides of the parting, back so that the hair goes back and then curls back on itself, giving a very glamorous look. 

11. Play around with how the hair falls until you get it how you want it, e.g sweep the top sections down and forwards, and help clump sections together that curl the same direction. 

12. Back comb the roots if any extra volume is desired. 

13. Add a bit of wax or shine spray to your fingers and smooth it over the ends to give a more polished finish. 

I am happy with this hairstyle, and I find it interesting how it changes the whole feel of the hair style - I feel this look is quite glamorous and sleek. I like how the curls integrate and all blend into each other. To improve the look, I should have used some hairspray to smooth down any fly aways/stray hairs.

Burns

Products/equipment needed:

• Block Gelatine
• Supra colour palette
• Bowl
• Microwave
• Spatula
• Hair dryer with cool setting
• Glycerin
• Sponge
• Black stipple sponge
• Small detail brush
• Large, stiff brush

1. Put the block of gelatine in a bowl and put it in the microwave, checking it every 10 seconds, and stirring

2. Once the gelatine is melted, test how hot it is on the back of your hand, and then dab it where you want it on the skin with a spatula. Work relatively quickly, as it cools down quite quickly

3. Powder over the top of the set gelatine with a powder puff and loose translucent powder.
4. Using a small brush, dab some supra colour (red, purples, yellows) the burn and blend it with your fingers. Add darker colours where you want to add depth.
5. Dab some more red with your fingers around the edges and on the burn to make it look sore and blistered.6. Using a sponge, dab some foundation that matches the skin lightly over the burn and over the edges to blend the burn into the skin.

7. Using a large, stiff brush or a black stipple sponge, dab some more red over the burn and blend with fingers.

Light Scaring Using Moulds

Products/equipment needed:

• Barrier/Shielding product (optional)
• A mould
• Petrolease Spray
• Vaseline
• Prosaide
• Pro-clean remover 
• Witch Hazel 
• Supracolor palette
• Fixing Spray 
• Translucent powder 

1. Apply prosaide to clean skin and prosthetic and wait until the glue goes clear (it will appear white when first applied)

2. Once the glue is clear press prosthetic firmly onto the skin and hold

3. Using witch hazel and a baby bud, apply around the edges of the prosthetic to melt down and make them appear less visible on the skin

4. Once the edges have been blended, powder the prosthetic and start applying the appropriate colour using the supracolor palette, making it look as realistic as possible

5. Apply some fake blood and/or wound filler

6. Once all the colour is applied use the fixing spray to set the colour on the prosthetic 

7. To remove the prosthetic, peel off the prosthetic and lightly apply and rub on some Pro-clean remover to remove the remaining glue on the skin

Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity Images

In all of the images below, the one on the left is the first time I created the look, and the one on the right is the second time... It is key to note that the lighting is slightly different between the 2 (the 2nd time the images were slightly brighter), thus the make-up may look slightly different, but it should not affect it to a large extent. Although, on a film/TV set, this would not be my job to control the lighting and cameras, therefore this problem would not occur. 

Overall, I was actually quite proud of how the 2 looks compared to each other - I think they looked very similar and I felt there was no obvious differences between the 2. As a whole, I think the make-up continuity was slightly better than the hair, because I feel the make-up is almost a perfect match, whereas the hair has very subtle slight differences, but it is very difficult to determine how the hair actually falls, but I feel that the actual styling of the hair is pretty much the same. 

The main difference that I realise as I look through the images is actually the headband; in some comparisons between the 2 images, the flowers are in a slightly different place, or the headband is slightly lower down or higher up than in the other image. Therefore this has taught me a key lesson, which is that accessories are just as important as the actual make-up and hair styling. 

I feel as though my hair styling has continued to improve throughout this project and it has allowed me to expand my knowledge about the history of hairstyles in different eras. Furthermore I definitely feel that I could recreate an early Victorian hairstyle in a heartbeat, due to how many times I have created one throughout this project! 

I believe my make-up application has improved quite a lot throughout this project and that I am now feeling more confident and comfortable as a make-up artist. The main turning point where I felt my design came together was when I invested in the extremely thin paintbrush to create the wrinkles - I feel that from then on my application became neater and 'sharper' and I became more concentrated and involved in the project. 

Overall, I have actually quite enjoyed the project as a whole, and it has definitely taught me about the importance, as well as the difficulty, of continuity when you are a make-up artist/hair stylist. 

Consultation Notes

These are the consultation notes for my model from my final assessment

Face Charts & Hair Charts

Face & hair charts that I used in my final ideas:

Final Miss Havisham hair chart

Final Miss Havisham face chart

Final Estella hair chart

Final Estella face chart

Extra face & hair charts that I have created throughout the project: